Selbach-Oster Mosel Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Kabinett 2023 070226ROBUST and orange rind emerge in

and orange rind emerge in the glass

Emmanuel Rouget trained for decades under his uncle Henri Jayer — whose Cros Parantoux and Echezeaux helped define the modern grammar of great Burgundy — and inherited Jayer's vines

Vignettes is one of their special parcel-driven roses

ungrafted vines that predate the modern wine industry

Selbach-Oster Mosel Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Kabinett 2023 070226ROBUST and orange rind emerge inKabinett is the Mosel's greatest trick: a wine under 10% alcohol that tastes gently sweet and yet finishes utterly refreshing. Selbach Oster draws this one mostly from the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, the steep blue slate sundial slope that is about as good as Mosel real estate gets, and ferments it naturally in old Fuder, the big neutral casks the region has leaned on for generations. The Selbachs have been doing this in Zeltingen for something like 400